Zoologist’s Beaver (2014), Review by Kate

© Kate Mancini
© Kate Mancini

[Below is a review by Kate Mancini, originally posted on 8/24/2014 in the Facebook group  “Peace, Love, Perfume”.]

Thrilled to have had a coffee afternoon with the talented and most gracious Victor. I got to sample the fun and fabulous new perfumes from his Zoologist line and got a sneak peek at his striking bottles. Cut on an angle, these bottles will hold their own amidst any collection as a modern and rich looking addition. Victor gifted me with a full bottle of Beaver, his first release! I was touched and honored ! Thank you Victor!

The labels on the bottles of Beaver are printed with the cutest bow-tiedbeaver who made me feel like indulging in high tea. I imagined myself calling out to him, “hello old chap!” in a British accent. This dashing beaveron the label
reminds me of Victor himself. Yes, cute, but also quite distinguished and surely serious, but still with a twinkle – utterly charming! 

The fragrance is gorgeous! It opens with a light musky citrus that has an ashy, smokey undertone. As the citrus fades the smoke becomes the principal feature. Evocative bonfire notes, outdoor notes, and wet stone middle notes lasted on me for about two hours and brought me to the dry down. Ahhh – great longevity! That’s so important for me when I’m considering purchasing a fragrance. Beaver‘s dry down notes are all about the animalistic musk. I love musk, as you must in order to appreciate this wonderful fragrance. As the hours passed I kept putting my wrist to my nose to enjoy the fragrance. Well done Victor! This will be a great success for you!

[For more info, please visit https://www.facebook.com/zoologistperfumes]

© Zoologist Inc.
© Zoologist Inc.

Comme De Garcons’ Incense Ouarzazate (2002)

Comme des Garcons Series 3 - Incense (1)

White Pepper Woody

Comme De Garcons’ Ouarzazate (an Islamic city in Morocco) is a spicy and warm incense perfume. The pepper is so strong that I don’t even detect the green tea and vanilla notes as listed in Fragrantica.

But to me, the most interesting aspect of this perfume is that it smells like Le Labo’s Rose 31. In fact, it should be the other way round. Le Labo kept everything in Ouarzazate except incense and wood and added rose and oud, and gave it a much easier to pronounce name and hit it out of the park.

Comme des Garcons’ Incense Kyoto (2002)

Comme des Garcons Incense Kyoto, 50ml, EDT
© Victor Wong

Coffee in a Teak Temple

Continuing my exploration of the Comme des Garcons’ Incense line. Today I’m wearing Kyoto. Longevity and sillage is much better than Zagorsk. The subtle coffee note definitely makes it more interesting and not as straight forward incensy.

I would like to add a note on the similarities between Kyoto and Le Labo Gaiac 10. Kyoto fans are accusing Le Labo for copying Kyoto (6 years apart), and I think they were more “inspired” than directly copying them. (Well, I don’t work for Le Labo, I honestly don’t know) But if you say they did, I would not argue. However, I find Gaiac 10 more peaceful and “pure” than Kyoto and I get more enjoyment wearing Gaiac 10, for a rare “less is more” experience.

Le Labo’s Fleur D’Oranger 27 (2006)

Le Labo Fleur D'Oranger 27, 100ml, EDP 16
© Victor Wong

Luca Thurin said Fleur D’Oranger 27 was a “cologne rip off” and gave it one star. Here’s my take: I don’t think it’s supposed to be a cologne, but a very simple perfume, similar to the Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line of perfume. It’s not a complicated perfume and its linear notes development almost makes it smell like an incomplete cologne.

I like this perfume a lot! Coincidentally my potted baby orange tree is blossoming and Fleur D’Oranger 27 smells just like the flowers. Green, jasminey, and a little bit dirty! I will give it a 3 out of 5 star and it’s perfect for spring.